Trying to Make Boots, Second Effort

It needs to be said that the class I took in no way taught us about boots.  I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing here. 

 

What I do know, is that I'm making an evening dress inspired by the armor of the Riders of Rohan, from the Lord of the Rings movies, sort of crossed with Elizabethan/Tudor.  And what that outfit needs, footwear-wise, is evening-dress appropriate riding boots. 

 

I've started boots before, but didn't get very far.  I taped, and made patterns, but I was having a really hard time figuring out what I wanted them to look like, and without a plan, everything kind of fell apart. 

 

So - starting out.  Again, not knowing the right way to measure the leg, I did the thing that made sense to me.  I wrapped my leg, from the knee down, in fabric, put my heel on a stack of coasters as tall as the heel would be, and taped over it with masking tape.  I marked my ankles, where my foot hit the floor (the feather line), the center back of my heel, and the spot I measure to for the high heel measurement.  Drew a line down the inside (where a zipper would go) and cut it off down that line. 

 

I taped that onto the last, taped up the last the rest of the way, and made a pattern.  Cut it out of fabric, and discovered that there was absolutely no way it would ever fit.  It was far too tight. 

 

Started over.  Did the exact same thing, but with one difference:  I wrapped the fabric over my jeans. A ways along in this project, it's clear that that's the way to go - when I try on the leather boot, it fits perfectly, with just the right amount of ease, around my bare or stocking-ed or yoga-pant-ed leg.

 

The design of the heel and vamp are inspired by a Jessica Simpson brand ankle boot, and a riding boot.   This photo shows the tape leg attached to the last, and the last taped, and the design lines marked out in tape and sharpie.

 

 

I have very large calves, so the boot leg is in four pieces - there just wasn't any other way.  Also, there's a shaping dart on the inside back piece, at the top, again to accommodate my freakishly large calves.  This is part of why I've never owned a pair of boots.  In making the pattern, I did quite a bit of adjusting to make the sides match.  I've never done a mean forme for shoes - I've read about it, and with my feet, it doesn't seem to be the way to go for the most part, but I wanted the vamp and counter to be *really* symmetrical.

 

I'm using the same 3-4 oz. tooling leather I used for the corset.  I'm afraid I don't have photos of lots of the process.  Given that I have no idea what I'm doing, and I'm making it up as I go along, it feels kind of irresponsible to put my full-on making-of info out there into the world, when it's likely it's very wrong. 

 

At any rate, I cut out the pieces, skived the edges, and did a bit of tooling on the toe cap, vamp, and counter.  Dyed the leather with the same Oxblood dye and Mahogany glaze as the corset.  There's one line of decorative-only stitching, so it'll match the corset.  The split on the counter, and the dart on the calf, are both hand-stitched with a dark brown heavy-duty thread.  I'm also going to glue the insides, for extra strength along those seams, and maybe glue a piece of (non-stretchable, fabric) tape over the seam as well.  I hand-stitched the toe cap to the vamp. 

 

 

I used the sewing machine to stitch the front, back, and outside seams on the boot leg - a standard seam, which then had to be wet and pounded out flat.  The vamp and counter are hand-stitched on, using the orange thread, so it's both a decorative and functional stitch.  Then, I carefully hand-stitched the inside seam.  After all - the fabric mock-up slipped on over my foot just fine, but I couldn't get in there with the sewing machine, and the leather is too stiff to sew the seam with the boot leg inside out and then turn it. 

 

Oops.  It took two days to sew that damn seam, and totally trashed my fingertips.  And then, I couldn't get my foot through it.  So I'm opening it back up, and installing a zipper.  On the up side, I didn't sew *both* boots before I discovered that little hiccup.  At this point, I just have to put the zippers in to both boots, and the outsides will be ready.  I still have to make the linings, but that should go a lot faster, since all the stitching can be done on the sewing machine, and the parts will be floppy, and easier to manhandle.

 

 

In other news, I've cut the celtek and shank board for the insoles, and formed the shank board, and glued them together.  I still have to put on the shanks, and do the fiberglass and epoxy bit.  Also, I discovered that my glue pot wasn't as well sealed as it could have been, and it's been months since I've used it, so the glue had dried up.  There wasn't much in there, but I'm not sure if the glue pot is slavageable, which is a shame, since they're not cheap.  I ordered more glue (Duall 88), and it's on it's way from New York, delayed slightly by the blizzard.  (It has to go ground....)  So I'm waiting on the glue to finish up the insoles.

 

While I'm waiting for my glue to arrive, I'll be making the linings and the heel blocks.  Hopefully, I'll be lasting by next week!  Which is good - because I have a chemise, scale maille skirt, cloak and purse to make, as well as my husband's jacket (an Elizabethan-inspired tuxedo-ish jacket, in dark blue velvet) to do.  Yikes!  I'd better get sewing.  On the up side, we'll be able to wear these to three events just this year (with different people at each event, for the most part), so killing myself now to get them done will pay off later.

 

 

 

Starting on boots

Time to get going on figuring out boots.  Past time, really.  I had taped up a last *ages* ago - the same one I used for the blue and black oxford.  Tonight, I wrapped my leg in scrap fabric, then taped it up, cut off the tape, and added it to the last.  I have no idea how this is really supposed to work, but this works for me. 

Next I'll work on the design.  At some point, I have to actually make a decision about whether I want it to lace up the front (probably a good idea) or zip up the side (closer to what I want it to look like, I think).  Either way, I can finally get off my butt and do something about this.

I haven't heard back from my contact at Jones & Vining recently.  I should really poke her, but on the other hand, I don't have the money just laying around at the moment to splurge on a bunch of lasts.  I'd really love to do a boot with a taller heel - but perhaps that can wait until I have a better idea about what I'm doing.

Starting back up on that pair of shoes

First up, found another good shoe blog - http://shoesandcraft.com  This is a guy who makes bespoke shoes, I think in New York.  Mostly men's. 

 

Tutu is at a good stopping place - the frills are all sewn on, and I've finished the waist band.  All that's left is the decorative fabric that goes on top.  I'll get going on that next week.

 

First, I wanted to get on top of that second pair of shoes - the lace-up, oxford/spectator inspired ones.  My black leather *finally* arrived, so I could start.

 

Here are the pieces cut out:

 

 

I still need to make the pattern for the lining, and cut the lining, obviously, as well as making the patterns for the counter and the heels. 

The jagged edge on the black pieces (which I think is called gimping) is typically done with a machine, as part of the cutting process.  You just run the cutting needle (like a sewing machine) along the cut line, and it gives you a nice, even, zig-zag edge.  I don't have one of those machines, so I cut all the little teeth by hand, with a pair of scissors.

The next step here is to get out the hole punches, and do the decorative holes along the edges, and also, to skive the edges of the light blue leather.

Corset Patterns!

Norwescon is coming right up!  I've been invited to join a costume group (Skittles), and have almost finished my costume for this year.  Yes, I'll be wearing the shoes I made (the black and silver flats) with the costume. 

I've got a couple of weeks, still, and would really love to make their costume from last year:

 

 

Everyone has a color, and my color is black.  (I didn't want yellow.)

So, the two big items here are the corset and tutu.  I've been scouring the internet and pestering friends for info on making the tutu, but the corset I've got covered.

Here's a corset I made a few years ago:



It's not cinched tight, but it fits nicely (it's a tiny bit loose, because I've lost some weight, but the proportions are still good), mostly because the pattern was expertly drafted for me by Lori, a friend who teaches corsetry. 

So, any time I need a corset, I just modify the pattern I have.  In this case, I want the panels to be closer to the same size, so I can put diamonds on them easily.  I'll also need the bottom edge to be a little higher, and a little flatter, so as to not interfere with the tutu.  And this particular corset pokes me just a tiny bit under the arms, so I'm lowering that about a half inch, and making the front top line a slight upward curve.  Here's my corset pattern:



I had to make the pattern before I could order the busk and stays.  Luckily, I need an 11" busk, and that's one of the two sizes they carry in the diamond-stud busk.  (I do love me some sparkle!)

I got some gorgeous black velvet with little white crystals for the outside, and a selection of silver and grey fabrics (5" of each) for the diamonds.  I'll be able to put together the lining and the outside, but will have to wait for the busk and stays to arrive to do the finishing. 

So now, I have two project that are waiting for the mail to arrive.  *sigh*

Patterns - Lace-up Heeled Oxford

Now that the first pair of experimental, post-class shoes are done, it's time to move on to the next! 

Experiments in the previous pair of shoes included flats, leather soles, stacked leather heel, suede, asymmetrical design, straps, toggles, attaching straps with elastic, cutout/inset, and many more.

Experiments on this shoe:  wood heels, multi-piece pattern, laces, tongue, higher vamp, gimping, punching designs... and I'm sure there are more things I've never done that we'll find along the way.

Remember this design?

Time to get started.  I received my copy of Handmade Shoes for Men, one of the very few good shoemaking resources available.  It answered some questions I had about the relationship between the lining and the tongue/laces area of the shoe.  So, on to pattern making.

Many/most? shoe makers do something called a mean forme.  Basically, you design your shoe, then split the pattern down the center line, and find the average between the inside of the foot and the outside of the foot, and make a pattern that's symmetrical. 

With my super wide feet, and with my propensity for asymmetrical designs, I like the system I learned in class better:  just do the whole damn thing.  So, I drew the design I liked onto the masking tape, and cut carefully along the lines with an exacto knife.  Peeled off the pieces, and traced them onto manilla file folders.  Added allowances for seams and lasting.  Here are all the pieces that will be black:

 

And here's the piece that will be metallic silver/pale blue, before adding the tongue and allowances:

 

And here's the entire pattern.  I love the shapes of these pieces - especially the light blue one.  I think it looks kind of like concept art for a fast spaceship in a sci-fi tv show.

 

I've already got the insoles made, and the heels carved.  But I can't start on these until I receive my shipment of black kangaroo leather, which should be arriving soon.

Heels are finished, made top line tape, more colors!

Sent my skiving knife off to get sharpened, which has ground everything to a halt here. 

On the other hand, I did finally make top line tape.  Top line tape runs around the upper edge of a pump, to give the top line of the shoe some reinforcement. Leather stretches - this stuff doesn't.  You can purchase top line tape, but I made some (like we did in class) from two layers of nylon ripstop fabric, glued together with Duall 88, and cut into 1/4" strips.

 

 

I also got my shipment from Sheridan Leather - Kangaroo in Fuchsia, Pink, Scarlet, and Orange.  Their prices are really good (about half what anyone else is charging) so I figured I'd grab these while I can.  They're out of the fuchsia now - I got the last one.

 

 

I've also finished making the oak heels.  I don't know if this will work or not - again, wood is not recommended for heels, because it splits.  On the other hand, I don't have a lot of choices, and the oak is free.  I think I did pretty good at getting the two to match eachother fairly well.  Once the shoes are lasted, it'll be easier to tell if they're a.) the correct height and b.) cupped enough on the top.

 

 

I think I've finalized the design for the second shoe.  Again - horrible lighting for photography in my workshop, but I think you can see the pencil lines clearly enough.  I ordered a book - Handmade Shoes for Men, by Lazlo Vass and Magda Molnar, which I'm hoping will answer some questions I have about the area where the laces go, and how the lining interacts with the outer in that area.

What I haven't been able to figure out is the color scheme for this shoe.  I now have a whole lot of colors, but can't choose.  And even once I choose, which color should be the dominant color (toe, heel, lace area) and which the background/accent color?  I've got cobalt blue, turquoise, light blue metallic, lilac, hot pink, light pink, orange, scarlet, black, white, and gold metallic, as well as a matte black and both grey and orange/brown suede.  And other than the black/red and black/white, I'm not sure I like any of the colors together.  It's a problem.  Any comments from the peanut gallery?

Patterns, heels, and boy do I suck at skiving.

Finished up the fabrication of the heels for the taller shoe.  I think I got them pretty much like eachother, and I guess time will tell if oak is a suitable heel material.  I can only guess that heels used to be made of hard woods, back before high impact plastics were available?  Photos on Friday.

Also made the pattern for the flat shoe.  This is done by carefully cutting along the top line, through the tape, then peeling the tape off the last.  (Leaving on the tape on the parts where there will be no leather upper, as it's a good placement guide when lasting.)

 

 

Small relief cuts are made in the tape, so that it can lay flat on a piece of cardstock.  Some decisions have to be made about how to break up the pattern - should I cut across the straps and sew it together there?  Or make a seam in the lower left-hand section, from the middle cutout to the edge?  

 

In the end, I decided to do something different than how it looks in the photo, but this is the general idea - various allowances are added, and a pattern is also made for the counter - a piece of stiffened leather that goes in the back of the shoe - that's the dark pink line.



 

I cut the black suede for the upper, and the grey pigskin for the lining, and started the skiving on the black suede.  Turns out, I'm really terrible at skiving.  Or perhaps my skiving knife is dull.  I dropped it on the cement floor when I bought it, and didn't notice at the time that I had chipped off the tip.  I'm going to send it off to Universal Saw, who sharpens all our bits and blades at work, and have them do it up to a nice razor edge for me. 

 

 

I've considered getting a Tina knife - although I'd have to get two, since I'd want to work in both directions.  They're a bit spendy for me, though, and I'm used to the Japanese knife I'm using now.  If it comes back really nice and sharp, I might just re-cut the black suede - I do have a lot of it, and it was fairly inexpensive. 

 

 

With that portion on hold for now, I'll make my top line tape on Friday, and get the design for the heeled oxford settled.  I ordered more fun colored kangaroo leathers today, but some of them will be a few weeks getting here, so I'll have to be patient in picking out my colors for the oxford.  Currently at my house, and of appropriate weight for this shoe:  Matte black (with grey/white tie-dye looking markings - they called it "licorice"), Cobalt Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Lilac, and Scarlet (they call it "light red"), as well as a very orange-y brown suede and the black suede.  Coming next week:  Fuschia (which I saw that they had removed from their web page - I called, and they had one left, at a screaming good price, so I snapped it up), Light Pink, Orange, and another of the Scarlet (the one I have is kind of small, and I can see myself using more of this one).  Some time in March, Black and White will arrive.  So - I have some decisions to make as to the colors of the oxford, and happily, a bunch of choices on their way.

 

 

Also, the smell of epoxy is still lingering in the house.  The next time I do that part of the process, I think I'll do it *outside*.  

Adventures in... oak?

While I'm waiting for things to arrive in the mail (and no, I'm not waiting particularly gracefully), I thought I'd try designing the other shoe.  It's a little taller, and I think I'm going to go for an oxford-like look.  I'll have to choose some colors, which might be the hardest part - despite not actually knowing how to make an oxford. 

Also, since the last has about a 1 1/2" heel pitch, I need a heel for this shoe.  I don't have any commercially-made heels in that height (the small selection I have are all 2" or taller), and it's not something you can just order a pair of off the internet.  Unfortunately. 

I looked in to 3-D printing, but the prices quoted to me by local people doing that kind of thing were way too expensive (I want to pay no more than $15 for two heels - the few that are available commercially in single pairs run between $6 and $9.)  I thought maybe injection molding, but again, it's cost prohibitive - because I only want two, not hundreds, and there's the set-up fees of making the molds. 

Wood isn't recommended, because it splits and breaks.  Aluminum might be an option - after all, I know several machinists - but again, it seems expensive, and because you can't drill into it, there's other design challenges.  I don't think that polymer clay or easy-cast resin would be good choices, because of the strength needed.  I haven't found a source for an inexpensive block of high-impact plastic that  could cut/carve/sand into a shape I like, nor do I know if that's even really an option. 

One of the guys at work gave me a piece of oak out of the scrap bin.  I'm going to go ahead and risk it for this pair of shoes.  The heels are fairly blocky, and they're not very tall, so I'm going to just cross my fingers and call it a learning experience.  I've made one, mostly (there's a bit I still want to sand off across the front edge), and will need to duplicate that exactly for the other.  It'll be covered in leather, so if I sand off too much, I guess I could theoretically build it back up a little bit. 

Anyway, here's a side view of what I'm thinking for the second pair of shoes:

Taping the Lasts, Designing a Shoe

Finished taping the lasts last night, and started on the design work. 

 

 

The first step here is to cover the upper of the last with two really thorough layers of 3/4" masking tape.  The tape has to be put on really neatly, and smoothed down, so there are no wrinkles.  Also, a center line is marked on the front and heel of the last.  The sole is trimmed off (the same area as the insole pattern.)

 

 

Next, five points are identified  - the Counter Point, Heel Point, Ankle Point, Vamp, and Instep.  People have been making shoes for long enough that the math has been figured out, and there's a chart for this.  You look at the Standard Last Length for your size (one of the few things that actually is standard, in this business), and measure to the appropriate points from there.  I made a diagram:

 

The heel point is the top edge of the back of the shoe.  On a pump, you need to stay below the ankle.  At this point, I start drawing the shoe onto the last with a pencil.  Once I think I have it the way I want it, I put some dark tape along the edge of the line.  I'm using colored duct tape, cut down to about 1/4".  Basically, the tape is removable and re-adjustable, and I can step back from the last and take a look from multiple angles, and make sure I like what I'm looking at.  Once I'm sure, I'll trace along the tape line with a fine point sharpie, and then with an exacto knife, to cut through all the layers of tape. 

 

 

This shoe is going to go with my costume for Norwescon.  It's a flat, and is going to hearken back to the Vikings, at least in spirit.  I'm not making a Norse style turnshoe, and I want something that I can wear *not* with a costume, so it's sort of "inspired by" the Viking shoes I've researched.  It'll have two straps across the top of the foot, that attach with toggles (need to work on figuring that out), and then a teardrop-shaped cutout on the toe that will be filled in with grey.  The shoe will be black suede, and have a black sole.  I'm still deciding if I want it to have grey piping along the edges. 

 

I don't know yet what I want to do with the other last.  It has a bit more of a heel (about 1").  Part of me wants to experiment with some things we didn't learn in class - maybe a sandal or a mule. Either way, I can't finish the patterns for these shoes until I receive the insole material.  It's coming from Saderma in Orange County, and I only ordered it this morning.  (They said they'd ship it today, so I should have it by the end of the week.)  So I'll be switching gears here, and starting work on the insole.  Part of the shoe that you don't even see, but it's most of the actual work!